Article by Steve Mefford

Camellias start to go into dormancy when bloom buds begin to swell and enlarge. The flower itself is about 93% water. It is important to keep the plants hydrated during this budding and blooming cycle.
Once a camellia shows these signs stop fertilizing with nitrogen. If you wish, start using a fertilizer that is nitrogen free. There are many types on the market. Always look for the 3 main nutrients usually on the front of the packaging, but not always. It should read 0-10-10 or something close. Do not go too high with the phosphorus number such as a 0-35-0 or a 0-50-0. I prefer a 0-10-10. Nitrogen past August will encourage the plant to continue putting out new growth which may affect the quality and or quaintly of blooms come winter.

The biggest reason for using a 0-10-10 starting in Oct and every 2 months through Feb. is for root development. A camellia’s root system does most of its growing in the months of Nov. through March. In April you will see the growth buds start to swell and elongate. This is a sign the shrub is coming out of dormancy and preparing itself for warmer, longer days in which to grow in. Once the growth buds have opened and new leaves appear go back to using a fertilizer with nitrogen in it.

Twice a year I will use iron on the camellias. Use it once in April to help with the development of chlorophyll, and again in Oct. to enhance the shades of red and pinks. Over use of iron like any fertilizer can cause adverse results.

Dan Charvet, A hybridizer in Northern Calf. Said, “transplanting is best done in Nov. when the plant is starting to put out new roots”. The weather is also a big factor at this time of year. It is usually cooler, the sun is further south and the days are shorter.